FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Looking for ideas to name your pets? -- Fabulous website with a gazillion names to explore: http://lowchensaustralia.com/names.htm

Do I ship my cats to their new homes?  No, sorry, I do not ship at this time.

What in the world is a 'Shaded Golden,' or a 'Shaded Silver?' And what does 'Chinchilla' mean?  This is an area of considerable confusion, but genetically fascinating.  I'm currently set up to breed predominately Shaded Silver and Golden kittens.  They are a division of Persians, and often thought of as the "Rolls Royce" of Persians.  The elite.  They often are sold for higher prices.  Probably the most famous Shaded Silver Persian is the Fancy Feast Cat.   Genetically, a shaded silver/golden is unique and somewhat different.  Traditionally, they have a slightly longer nose, though many breeders have pushed for and succeeded in achieving the more extreme face in their shaded silver/golden lines in order to make them more competitive in the show rings.  What makes these cats somewhat unique is the 'inhibitor' gene.  These cats are actually genetically black tabbies, but because of the inhibitor gene, their undercoat becomes increasingly lighter as they mature until they are white (or gold), with black ticking on their backs.  The strength of the inhibitor gene dictates how light they become.  I often tell people that they are like the Lipizzan horses because they are born black (or very dark) and lighten as they mature.  Tiny Bear (see the 'Parent Cats' page) is almost completely white.  The very light colored shaded silvers and goldens are called "Chinchillas."  A subset of the shaded silver Persian is the shaded goldens which, put simply, comes about when two shaded silver Persians carrying the recessive golden trait, or two goldens are mated.  Or, as in the case of my breeding pair: a chinchilla silver, carrying gold mated with a shaded golden.  Therefore, shaded goldens are quite unique, and a Chinchilla shaded golden (very light colored), even more so.  Another genetic trait of the shaded silver/goldens is that they will ALL have green to blue-green eyes at maturity.

Can I guarantee you a lap cat?  Many people tell me that they are hoping for a lap cat "this time."  We all love an affectionate animal, and naturally this is of concern.  The reputation of the aloof cat is still quite prevalent and perhaps for good reason.  Cats are not like dogs.  Cats bestow their affections with discretion.  No, I cannot guarantee a lap cat.  Cats, like children, are SUCH individuals, each with his or her distinct and unique personality.  It's important that each kitty be appreciated in his or her own right.  HOWEVER, I can say this--my kittens are some of the friendliest I've personally known, and I work hard to socialize them and give them every chance to develop their natural, sweet temperaments.  Many factors will contribute to the kind of kitty they will ultimately grow up to be.  As Persians they are bred for sweetness, so heredity is in their favor.  They have an excellent start in life with good nutrition and lots of love and handling during the first three months of their life.  The rest will depend on each individual's innate personality combined with how gently he or she is introduced into the new home, as well as interaction with all family members including other pets.   In any case, and in general, a Persian will only be a "temporary" lap cat ... they like to cuddle until they get hot, then will flounce off to some near-by spot to cool off.

Is a male or female better?  And which is easier to introduce to established family pets?  I'm often asked these gender questions.  I can only tell you my own experience.  I've had both genders of cats.  In general,  I've found females to be just a bit more independent than males.  But every kitty is an individual and, once neutered, males and females only exhibit subtle differences.  As for which gender is the easiest to introduce into a household?  I have people call and tell me that they want a male because they already have a female cat (or visa versa), and were told that a male and female would get along better.  I don't know this to be true.  I know that jealousy issues definitely can arise when introducing a new animal, but I've had very little trouble with Persians of either gender.

... AND what about males spraying?  Yes, this can happen -- but it's rare in a neutered male.  It's preferable to neuter males before they begin spraying (at around 6 - 8 months), but neutering an adult male will, in most cases, stop the spraying habit, though it may take a few weeks or months.  Also, though many don't know this, females can spray (both neutered and non-neutered) -- again, it's rare in a spayed female.  Households that experience spraying from spayed or neutered cats are generally multiple cat environments where the cats feel as if they are in competition with each other for territory.

Is it difficult to introduce a new cat into a home with established cats.  This will depend on the personality of the pet you already have.  The kitten will probably want to make friends as soon as he or she becomes accustomed to the new environment, but the older pet is going to feel threatened, so you will need to be patient.  Some take longer than others.  I've had it be a non-event or, as in one case with an older cat, it took several months for her to accept the new kittens.  Usually, they are tolerating each other within a few days, and full acceptance on average is two weeks.

What about having an ONLY cat?  Will it get lonely?  I, personally, would always like to see my kittens go to new homes in pairs.  It's fun for them and the new owners.  However, I highly respect the pet owner who knows their limits.  Quite often that limit is ONE cat.  An ONLY cat does quite well once they adjust to their new environment, and quickly becomes accustomed to being king or queen of the family.  I would like to emphasis, however, that these are SOCIAL cats!!  As such, they should not be left for long periods of time without human companionship and attention.  If you work long hours, I STRONGLY recommend two kittens.  If you plan to introduce another cat at some later date, it's advisable to do it while the resident cat is fairly young, as they can get quite attached to their royal status as the one and only family pet.

Why do most breeders keep their kittens until at least 12 weeks, and some even longer?  Yes, I know many puppies and kittens go to new homes at 8 weeks and sometimes even younger.  You will usually find this to be the case in animal shelters, or large breeding operations where it's necessary to move them out as soon as possible....and, of course, we all know that they usually manage fine in their new homes.  However, most breeders do not like to let their kittens go that early for a number of reasons, especially if they are going with a health guarantee:

It's often advantageous to the socialization and health of the kitten to not rush weaning.  A kitten going to a new home at 8 weeks is going to have to be rushed through this important adjustment.

Through nursing , kittens will benefit from their mother's immunity to diseases  for up to 6 to 10 weeks of age.  This varies from kitten to kitten and is always an unknown.  Therefore the kitten needs to be vaccinated at around 9 weeks of age, then again 3 - 4 weeks later.  A kitten going to a new home, with all of the ensuing stress, is going to be particularly vulnerable to disease, and needs time for its immune system to build up, so it's ideal for a kitten to at least have its first vaccination BEFORE entering a new environment.  

By 12 weeks of age, the kitten has had sufficient time to be on solid food for a while as well as develop good litter box habits; the inevitable kittenish problems of goopy eyes and upset tummies is pretty much over, and the reputable breeder is more confident that the kitten can be launched with the least amount of trauma to either the kitten or the new family.  If you would like to read a more detailed explanation on the best age for kitten adoption, I found this article to be excellent:  http://www.breedlist.com/faq/young.html

What about vaccinations and worming?   Since I mention vaccinations above, this might be a good time to address this question.  The savvy buyer should ask about both vaccinations and worming.  At the time of writing this, the latest recommended vaccination protocols along with other health related information was published in November of 2006 by the AAFP (American Association of Feline Practitioners) - When you have the time, I highly recommend checking out this link: http://www.aafponline.org/resources/practice_guidelines.htm.    The vaccination protocol for low risk catteries such as mine indicate that the first three-way upper respiratory vaccination be given at about 8 - 9 weeks of age.  I have this done at this age when I take the kittens in for their veterinary examination.  The second vaccination should be give 3 - 4 weeks later.  This means that IF YOU WANT YOUR KITTEN at 12 weeks of age, the second vaccination will be the buyers' responsibility.  Many breeders will keep their kittens until after 16 weeks of age to accommodate this second vaccine (among other personal reasons).  Some practitioners are recommending a third vaccine after 16 weeks.  For my own cats, I give two vaccinations -- at 9 weeks, then one after 16 weeks of age, then possibly a follow up at 1 year of age.  This is something for the buyer to discuss with their veterinarian.  Other vaccinations to discuss are the FeLV, which is not considered a "core" vaccine and is recommended only for cats at risk (usu. outside or indoor/outdoor cats) and the rabies vaccination which is mandated by law.  I do not administer either of these vaccines to out-going kittens, and leave that decision up to the buyer.

WORMING:  As a precaution, I worm the kittens twice before adoption with Panacur; a de-wormer drug I favor for its broad spectrum qualities which also include the common protozoa, giardia. I also like it for its safe use in very young kittens and even pregnant cats.  I follow up with a parasite fecal screen done by my veterinarian at  8 - 9 weeks of age so that the results will be in by the time I take them in for their exam.

What can you expect from me if you purchase one of my kittens?  What will I expect of you?  At the time of adoption, you can expect your kitten to be well socialized, well trained to the litter box, and free of illness, parasites, or contagious diseases.   The kitten comes from PKD negative parents (an inherited kidney disease), and a limited health guarantee is written into the contract.  You, as the buyer must understand that, as in adopting a child, there are no REAL guarantees down the road of life, however, if the kitten should die of a genetic defect within the first two years, you will be refunded or offered a replacement kitten.  Health is guaranteed at the time of adoption, however any illness or disease contracted after adoption is not included in the guarantee.  You are encouraged to have the kitten inspected soon after adoption by your veterinarian to verify its health and have it on record.

Your kitten will be sent home with a "kitten kit" which includes care instructions, pedigree, vaccination/health records, copy of the contract, several cans of food to get you started, and anything else I can think of to make the kitten's transition as easy as possible.  You can, and are encouraged to call or email me with any questions or concerns throughout the life of your new kitty.

What I expect from you.  The first thing I will ask you to do is email me (or call me) with a brief report about kitty's homecoming.  I find that I do not rest easy until I know that the baby is off to a good start.  I will probably also ask for a report about a week after that to make sure all is well.  BUT, mostly I ask that you love, cherish, and spoil your kitty.  Oh, and send cute pictures often!

What does it mean to have a registered pedigree cat?  Having a cattery registered with one or more of the major cat registries lends legitimacy to the cattery and the kittens born in that cattery.  There are several cat registries, with the CFA (Cat Fanciers' Association) being one of the largest.  If you want to show a pedigree cat in a CFA cat show, it must be registered with CFA.  Mythicbells is a CFA registered cattery.  Each litter is registered individually with CFA.  The registration for each litter provides the vital information for the kittens in that litter to legitimize their heredity as pedigreed kittens.  This includes date of birth, name of father and mother, breeders name, etc.  As a pet, your kitten does not need to be registered.  However,  I feel that if you have gone to the expense of securing a pedigreed kitten as your valued family member, it is your right to have registration papers on that kitten should you choose to have them.  These papers will be provided to you upon proof of spay/neuter.  IF you have purchased breeding rights to the kitten, you will need to register the kitten and will receive the papers with the kitten, or as soon as I get them from CFA.  Each of these papers require a PIN number FROM ME to indicate that you have purchased the breeding rights to that kitten.  Without the PIN number, CFA will not allow you to register the cat with breeding rights. 

Do I show my cats?  No I don't.  It's not something I'm interested in doing for a number of reasons.  My cats are all beautiful in my eyes and I don't enjoy the thought of subjecting them, or myself, to the stress of travel and shows.  Campaigning a cat is expensive and takes you away from home, and I prefer to channel money into their diet and care and spend as much time as I can with them all here at home. 

You think you might like to breed your kitty a few times?  To secure breeding rights, you need to purchase the kitten with a breeding contract.  This is REALLY NOT advisable unless you are serious about breeding or already a breeder.  It's a lot more expensive in more ways than just the initial price of the cat.  For one thing, you will need two cats (male and female) or access to a stud.  I got a call not too long ago from someone who had purchased a female Persian that had been in heat all spring and driving the family crazy -- I wasn't clear on how legitimate the breeding rights and registration papers were on this cat, but the owner was looking frantically for stud service.  This needs to be planned ahead.  Stud service is NOT easy to find.  In addition, a non-neutered/spayed breeding cat does not make the best pet.  The females can go into heat as early as 6 months of age and will continue to cycle in and out of heat until bred.  The males can take up spraying and restlessness if not neutered by 6 or 7 months.  Cats that are allowed to remain un-neutered/spayed and not bred, can develop serious physical and behavior problems.  The entire enterprise of breeding a cat needs to be well thought out and planned for.

How do I feel about selling to breeders?  I prefer my kittens to go to loving pet homes.  If you are just starting out and looking for your very first breeding cat, you should consider a few things.  What are your goals?  If you want to get into breeding and showing cats, you should develop a relationship with a show breeder who is willing to mentor you.

Will I provide stud service?  No, I am not equipped to provide stud service.

What about showing a Mythicbells kitten or cat?  All of my kittens have the necessary papers to show in CFA,  and their parents have pedigrees with numerous champions and grand champions in them.  Many of my kittens may be "show quality" since the shaded silvers and goldens can often be competitive in the show rings without the extreme faces.  I don't distinguish in regards to price between show quality and non-show quality.

Okay, I've mentioned "doll-faced" Persians more than once.   What is a doll-face anyway?   To tell you the truth, I had not heard the term "doll-face" until I started researching and looking for a breeder willing to sell to me and mentor me.  After having one doll-face Persian and two with the extreme faces, I knew that I did not want to have any more extreme faces, nor did I want to concentrate on breeding them.  I love ALL my Persians, but the extreme faces come with some problems in some cases, plus I prefer the cute, Persian "look," but with just a bit more nose.  When I explained to the breeder I ultimately found what I was looking for and what I admired about her cats, she said "oh, you want to breed doll-faces."  ... and that was the first time I'd heard the term.  SO, a doll-face Persian is more of a traditional Persian, or what they used to look like in the beginning of their breeding history.   If registered with CFA or one of the other cattery registries, they are no less pedigreed than the extreme faced Persians.  Most breeders, no matter how show oriented they are, have some doll-faced Persians now and then.

What's the difference between a Himalayan and a Persian?  In some circles, a Himalayan or a Persian that carries the necessary gene to create a Himalayan, is considered a non-pure Persian... or perhaps it would be better to put it the other way around.  A Persian that does NOT carry the CPC (color point) gene is a "pure" Persian, while an Himalayan is not.  Other than their coloring, they both have the same visual attributes as far as body shape, fur, face, etc.  In the distance past of the Himalayans as a breed, Siamese were crossed with Persians to obtain the unique coloring of the Siamese but retain all of the other Persian traits.  In some registries Himalayans are considered a separate breed from Persians, and in other registries they are simply classified in their own color division within the Persian breed.

Do Persians require a lot of bathing?   Unless they are show cats, I have not found this to be the case.  I have one Himalayan I tried to bathe as a kitten -- she bit me nearly to the bone, and has never been bathed since.  She's immaculate and always has been.  Her sister has a coat that used to get a bit greasy and unkempt in her younger days, and I did bathe her every now and then, but she finally out grew that phase and hasn't been bathed in years.  So it depends on the cat.  I do not routinely bathe my cats.  However, I DO bathe the kittens at least several time during their time with me so that they are exposed to the experience which helps should they turn out to be Persians that need an occasional bath.

What about grooming?  I've heard it said that Persians can have one of two types of coat.  I believe this may be true.  I had one sweet little tortie who was a nightmare to groom.  Her fur was like wool and collected snarls every where.  So far, she has been the only one that was much of a problem.  Of course they all get knots in their fur on occasion, but with frequent brushing it's not much of an issue.  However, DO keep up on the grooming because even the silkiest coats can get unmanageable if you don't.

What about feeding, flea control, and other general care tips?  I've written some of this information out in other areas of this website and also provided helpful links to good information I've come across in my research.  I also give out a "kitten care manual" with each kitten and have made it available for download via a link on the "about us" page of this website.  This is a work in progress as I'm continually revising it as my research continues and my thinking evolves, so it's a good idea to check back for updates: